Celebrating New American Cuisine: Breva Bar & Grill
Article by Becky Fillinger, photos provided
A discussion with Culinary Director Ron Rosselli and Beverage Director Tony Edgerton
Breva Bar & Grill, 1115 2nd Avenue S, opened in October inside Hotel Ivy. People are raving about the elevated comfort food and New American flavors coming from the kitchen and the bar. We talked to Culinary Director Ron Rosselli and Beverage Director Tony Edgerton about what we can expect when we visit. I have my eye on Walleye Dip, with house made potato chips and a Wild Rice Negroni – how about you?
Ron Rosselli
Q: You’ve been a professional chef for 20+ years, in a wide range of venues. How did you approach putting together a menu for Breva Bar & Grill.
A: We approached the menu development in a couple of ways. First, we leaned into the name Breva (fig in Spanish) and wanted to make sure we had something on the menu with a fig component. Our chicken dish has a jus finished with mission figs that have been rehydrated in balsamic and red wine vinegar. While the dishes may not be Spanish in origin there are a few that lend themselves to European flavors. We also looked at what local ingredients were available in Minneapolis and neighboring region. The wild rice is a Midwestern product, the cheese on the menu is local from The Humble Goat and Ellsworth Cooperative Creamery, our bread comes from Baker’s Field Flour & Bread, who are known for their stone milled flours. Lastly, we will be changing our menus with the inspiration of each season.
Q: What trends do you see in the culinary world right now and are they reflected on the Breva menu?
A: I think sustainability is something we continue to see in the culinary world, responsible use of ingredients, and how that affects our carbon footprint. I've become a big fan of plant-based cooking so there is always at least one vegan dish on the menu. I believe utilizing the entire product in smart and creative ways can add flavor, textures and little to no waste. For instance, we use Swiss chard in a dish but instead of discarding the stems we pickle them and fold them into our wild rice for a pop of acid and crunch.
Suya Honey Chicken Wings
Roasted Beet Salad
Pan Seared Salmon
Q: Your online teaser page encourages us to come for a taste of the Midwest – what does that mean to you in terms of the menu?
A: It means seasonality and local ingredients. Our opening menu represents the fall and winter with some heartier dishes that feel comforting during the harsh Minnesota winters.
Q: What are some must-try dishes when we visit?
A: Braised Short Rib is a dish that came together last minute that is flavorful and perfect for the season. We braise the short rib with warm, dried Mexican chilis (flavorful but not spicy) served over a creamy polenta with brightness from shaved onion and pickled radish. The Suya Honey Chicken Wings are something that was inspired by the West African population. It's always exciting to discover new ingredients and our flavor profiles and this was something we dove right into. Suya is a type of spice rub that is traditionally found on chicken or beef, that is grilled and served as street food. We took the spice blend and layered it throughout the cooking process, in our cure, our breading and in the honey we glazed the wings in to finish. Then Roasted Chicken highlights the season, the wild rice from the Midwest and connects the dots to the restaurant name with the figs. And of course, our Smoked Walleye Dip with walleye sourced from Lake Superior.
Tony Edgerton
Q: A Forbes article mentions that future cocktails will seek to elevate the experience and focus on pleasure for the customer – serving tiki drinks, classics with intensive flavors, caffeine laden tipples, even incorporating virtual reality to transport the consumer to exotic locales. What are your thoughts on the future cocktail experience?
A: From my perspective, some of the great bar programs in every market have been utilizing these immersive tools for years in order to elevate the guests' experience from a creative mindset. What is really refreshing to see is that these efforts are becoming more and more standard throughout the industry. Guests are appreciative and honestly craving new and fresh experiences. It's up to us to provide that for them. I consider it both a privilege and a responsibility. The future cocktail experience, in my opinion, is a firm foundation in the techniques and standards that have brought us to where we are today. While at the same time continuing to push the boundaries of new and exciting experiences for our guests. One avenue that I have focused on in my career is the blending of cuisine and cocktail making a cohesive experience between food and beverage. Beverages such as an Elote Margarita, or a tequila-infused gazpacho soup as an amuse bouche. I love using culinary techniques in cocktail work.
Q: I saw another article that mentions that mixologists will curate relationships with farms to grow ingredients for cocktails – that will work so well in Minneapolis! Can you talk to us about that idea and if it is on your radar? (We know lots of local farmers!)
A: It's funny you ask, something that I have always been on the forefront of in my career, is the "Farm to Bar'' concept. I would say that there are few things as rewarding or fulfilling as designing a menu around seasonality, discussing ingredients that are fresh and having a real relationship with the farmers and families that are growing these ingredients. This also consequently ties into the question above. A focus on seasonality and grown ingredients that directly translate to the guest glass. The freshness is unmatched!
Q: What should we try on the Breva Bar & Grill drink menu to experience your philosophy?
A: At Breva Bar & Grill of course we focus on seasonality as well as freshness. Our cocktail list is a blend of classic cocktail variations that focus on local ingredients. Two examples and recommendations are the Wild Rice Negroni, a subtle use of Minnesota wild rice stirred into a classic well-made Negroni. The rice is added only at the time of stirring. It leaves behind a subtle wild rice earthiness, but more so, a slightly rounded and softened texture to the traditionally sharp and bitter cocktail. The second is a refreshing fig and black berry cobbler. Served in a tall cooler glass, this cocktail is both refreshing and seasonal. It's also aptly named Breva (fig in Spanish) and it's a perfect pairing with the oven roasted chicken entree, that also cross utilized fig reduction as well as Minnesota wild rice.